“It’s a high water year, folks. You’re in for a treat,” our guide assured us with a grin.
Gangly and angular, our guide’s arms hung disproportionately long in a way that no respectable non-teen’s should. The kid couldn’t have been a day over 18. What little faith I’d staked in the skimpy life vest strapped around my neck vanished the moment he uttered, “Dude,” like he was doing some bad Keanu Reeves “Bill and Ted” impression–only clearly, he wasn’t. He clapped a jovial hand to my shoulder. “Duuude. This is going to be some ride.”
This is how Day 3 of our Arches National Park adventure began. Road Trip 2014 took us through 9 National Parks and 6 states with a Colorado River whitewater rafting trip serving as a highlight and splurge we’d carefully budgeted for. Only now, standing in a Moab parking lot being fitted for life vests, I was sort of wishing we’d sprung for a safe little float trip instead. You know–calm. Mellow. Post-pubescent guide.
We jumped into a rickety jeep sans seatbelts and zipped off to our put-in site near Fisher Towers, 45 minutes away. While our Canyonlands by Night and Day guides chirped about the myriad ways we could potentially die on this tour (waivers, liability, blah, blah), I had time to contemplate how little I cared for adrenaline rushes and how fond I’d grown of breathing. With warm gusts making bird nests of our hair, we cruised down the highway to a rash of exuberant high-fives and Lynyrd Skynyrd blaring from the front-seat boom box.
Nodding along to the beat, our guide explained how high water had turned our heretofore Class I and II section of the Colorado into more sizeable Class II and III rapids. He winked at our youngest–a hair over three feet and 30-some-odd pounds–small fry by any standard.
“You ready to hang tight and get wild, little guy?” he said, reaching across the seat to muss our son’s hair. He studied the life vest dwarfing our youngest’s face, clearly a size or two too large despite falling within the recommended age range for this trip before turning to me.
“He can swim, right, Mom?” he asked, almost as an afterthought. “I’m kidding,” he deadpanned.
Once at the put-in site, we learned that the guides would lead four separate tours. As a party of five, we were assigned own raft and guide–ours being the gangly teen with the lashes and curly locks girls would kill for, of course. With a trademark grin, he threw gear into our raft–extra life vests, a first aid kit (“You’re a Scout mom; you know how to use this thing, right?” he said with a wink), Tevas, sunscreen–and chatted up the kids about school and Scouts and Arches. I’ve no doubt the conversation seemed natural because he was young enough to be their older brother, but I was grateful for his easy rapport with the kids. “Relax, Mom!” he said to me more than once. “I promise you, this is going to be so much fun.”
And oh, did we have fun! Despite my initial misgivings, our first-ever whitewater rafting adventure turned out to be a true trip highlight for us. Our guide explained how to lean into the center of the raft through the rapids and how to angle our bodies if we fell in. Boy, were we surprised to learn we’d be sitting on the edge of the raft and not inside it! Our guide expended all his elbow grease rowing while we focused on gripping that raft line for dear life. Being on the water was calming, however, and it wasn’t long before we found ourselves savoring the unique perspective the river provided: orange sandstone climbing toward the sun, the Colorado River snaking into the horizon. Our guide regaled us with brushes with celebrity–”Bon Jovi rented out that sandstone tower to film his music video!” (“You weren’t even alive when that video came out,” I quip; his smile concedes it’s true)– and Moab trivia. It was all so calm and un-rapids-like that we were lulled into thinking that maybe this was the extent of the ride.
But this was a whitewater rafting tour after all, and it was just a matter of time before our ride turned bonafide wet and wild. From around the bend, Onion Creek Rapids looked like little more than gentle froth, but the sly grin on our guide’s face told us otherwise. “Lean in!” he hollered, paddling directly into the effervescent white. With a whoop and an explosive geyser-spray that drenched us head to toe, we were off! The raft rocked wildly to and fro, battered about by the swirling eddies. We ebbed and crested for what felt like minutes; at one point, I could swear the raft leapt right out of the water. The kids screamed with delight, Mom loudest of all.
“Again! Again!” the kids shrieked. We couldn’t get enough of the frothy white stuff, urging our guide to maneuver a long path through the next set. It was equal parts thrilling and terrifying in the most addictive of ways. I could see why people did this year after year. I wasn’t sure I’d ever have the guts to hoist myself back into a flimsy raft after this, but man, was it ever a rush. We floated through Fisher Towers with eagle eyes peeled for whitewater, screaming and laughing like loons every time our raft went flying through the air. Before we knew it, we were on the edge of the last rapid, our 3-hour ride all but over. Our guide was awesome, prolonging the ride as best he could by not paddling. Rapids being rapid, however, we were soon in the shallows and docking along the river bank. We’d had an absolute blast–I can’t recommend Canyonlands by Night and Day highly enough! If whitewater rafting isn’t your thing, Canyonlands by Night and Day also offers jet boat tours, zip lines, and ATV tours in the area.
After a bumpy jeep ride back to the company office in Moab, we spent the rest of the afternoon hiking in Arches. Hikes #1-5, including Landscape Arch, Double O, Balanced Rock, Double Arch, and Delicate Arch, may be found here.
- Hike #6 Windows + Turret Arch: This easy 1.2 mile trail brought us up close and personal with North and South Windows and Turret Arch, all of which can be readily viewed from the road. What’s the point of hiking when you can easily see these arches from the road, you ask? Well, everything, really, and perspective, mostly. There’s something both humbling and sacred about being in the presence of these temporary giants. It’s a feeling that can’t be replicated from the car. To clamber up boulders at the base of an arch or lay in the shade of a multi-ton wrinkle-in-time is to know the immense awe of these natural wonders. Arches does a fantastic job of maintaining the accessibility of this trail, making it perfect for kids and adults of all ages and abilities.
- Hike #7 Park Avenue: This moderate 2-mile out-and-back trail evoked a skyscraper-lined cityscape hewn from stone. The steep descent toward the Courthouse Towers made for a moderate return climb under afternoon sun, but this is a very doable hike for littles if timed properly. The Three Gossips was our favorite formation by far, capturing our imaginations with its uncanny resemblance to a conspiring threesome. With formations like the Organ, Sheep Rock, and Tower of Babel, Park Avenue Trail is sure to spark your imagination, too.
- Bonus birdwatching hike in Scott Matheson Wetlands Preserve: Located less than ten minutes from the entrance to Arches, this lovely one-mile boardwalk loop meanders through fragile wetlands providing sanctuary to more than 200 species of migrant birds. While spring and fall might prove more fruitful for spotting seasonal migrants, our time in the Preserve was unfortunately a bust. We enjoyed exploring the informational kiosk and shaded gazebo, but afternoon summer heat rendered any potential bird activity non-existent. Still, this peaceful stroll through lush wetlands was like striking oasis gold amid Moab’s ubiquitous desert red rock.
Hikes are short and sweet in Arches, making this sandstone playground imminently accessible to both young and young-at-heart alike. With a bevy of great trails to choose from, a daily six-mile cap proved key in keeping our five-year-old (and thus mom and dad!) sane and happy. A three-day timeline worked well for us, allowing for leisurely hiking and ample time for fun extras like swimming. Your mileage may vary (pun intended, groan!)–families with older kids or hardier littles might easily squeeze these hikes (and then some) into a single day.
My one regret? Missing the Fiery Furnace ranger-guided tour. Exploring Fiery Furnace without a guide is allowed, but I think we’ve all seen “127 Hours”–um, no solo off-the-grid hiking for me, thanks! I hemmed and hawed over our youngest’s skill level and safety for this hike and missed our window of opportunity; I’ve been kicking myself ever since. These tickets sell out fast, so don’t let my mistake be yours: snatch them up and reconsider later–you can always return them if need be. Whether you’re a thrill-seeking adrenaline junkie or first-time hiker, Arches offers something special for everyone. Linger a while, and let yourself be moved.
Also from Road Trip 2014: Bryce Canyon, Canyonlands, Zion, Mesa Verde
That sounds awesome. I’ve kayaked some mostly mild rapids before, but I think I may have to try whitewater rafting sometime. Great photos and very well written, too.
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Thanks so much, Matthew! Kayaking rapids sounds like a ton of fun–adding that one to my list for sure. We loved rafting, but I think my body’s getting too old to handle all of this adrenaline stuff, lol.
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Enjoyed reading this, especially the parts about your guide. Your kids are real troopers! Great trip.
Peta
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Thanks so much, Peta! Our guide was a character for sure–sweet kid. We had a great time in Utah…hope to make it back soon!
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So awesome to see a family having so much fun with adventure! LOVE IT
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Thanks so much for your kind words! It was a fun and wild family experience for sure. 😀
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You’ve done it again, made me put another item on my bucket list. 🙂That white water rafting on the CO river looks like sooooo much fun and the scenery that you pass by looks incredible! Sign me up! I could totally picture your guide after you described him, so well written. Those short and sweet hikes seem right up my alley too. Having people in the picture really put into perspective how big the formations were, can’t wait to see them in person. I just looked up the Fiery Furnace tour, looks challenging but exciting. Will have to look into that, thanks for the heads up. You’ve done such a fantastic job creating so many wonderful family memories. Loved the post! 😄
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Aww, thanks so much, Aya! It would be so awesome if you guys did the Fiery Furnace tour. (Which has nothing to do with me being selfish so I can read all about it vicariously!) 😀 Moab has so many great rafting options, too. I wish we’d sprung for the full day tour instead of the half; it was only $20 more pp, but you get a whole day of rapids and fun! I think they even do multiday tours, which would be amazing. I’m so excited for you guys to hit Utah–love that state!
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Duuude. That was awwwesome! 🙄 I cringed as I typed these. Oh what an old man I’ve become. Seriously. For some reasons, I never give much thoughts to Arches NP. But your last two posts have changed my mind. Now I’ll have to plot our route through Utah, perhaps, next year. Thanks for sharing this wonderful post.
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Lol! Thanks for the laugh. Duuude, I totally hear you. I’m such an old lady; that boom box in the jeep was way too loud for me. 😀 Arches is so much fun, especially with Canyonlands right next door. I think you and David would get a kick out of staying in Moab–it’s a cute town with a fun vibe.
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Again you bring back memories and make me want to go back. We did a Colorado rafting trip also, and loved when we hit some rapids. Our kids felt our trip didn’t have enough of them so they want to go again on a more intense trip. I don’t know, what we did was fine with me. 😉 Oh, the Fiery Furnace! I have the exact same regret! We opted not to do that and instead drove 70 miles to see the Needles of Canyonlands which we actually found wasn’t quite worth the drive (we enjoyed Island in the Sky so much more). Anyway, I have regretted that ever since! I guess it just means we have to go back someday.
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That’s so funny that you have the same regret about the Fiery Furnace! I remember reading your Needles post last year but hadn’t realized you’d skipped Fiery Furnace to see it. That’s okay–all the more reason to return! I’m the cautious one in our family, too, so I can relate to your feelings about rafting. Our kids are hoping for bigger and scarier (!) next time around, but I’m juuuust fine with a baby float trip. 😀 Such a fun memory–glad you guys had fun rafting, too!
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Takes me back to our short time in Moab. We hiked Park Avenue Trail. Too short was all could say, but we did it on an evening in the spring when the temperatures were only in the 80s.
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Evening sounds like the perfect time to hike in Arches. The heat was pretty brutal during the summer, but early morning starts helped a lot. Glad you enjoyed the trails–Moab’s such a great little town! Thanks for reading!
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You have such a way with words. I laughed reading your descriptions of the guide. You guys are brave. I must admit, white water rafting is not my thing (did it once on a frigid river in the Canadian Rockies and I thought it was going to be the end of me). Your pictures are gorgeous…maybe I could stick to the calm sections?!
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I will stick to the calm sections with you. 😀 We had a great time, but I feel like whitewater rafting falls into the same bucket list category as marathons for me: one and done, lol. Our guide was such a character…made for a memorable trip (and fun blog fodder) for sure!
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What an adventure! Glad you stuck with it despite the misgivings, it makes a great read.
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Thank you for your kind words! We had a great time rafting and are glad we stuck with it, too. Thanks so much for reading!
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Great post! I think you will like my latest post about sunscreen dangers and catuapproved sunscreens! Check it out. 🙂 ❤
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